High jewellery – a study of the classics

Because we live with design classics we think they remain unchanged from the day they were created. But tastes move on, volumes vary and the codes of jewellery are continually tweaked. Take the Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo bracelet. Introduced in 1934, it was inspired by couture innovations of the time – a gold mesh bracelet designed as if a belt, with a buckle-like clasp. By the 1940s, that bracelet had become a watch. Last year, Van Cleef & Arpels revealed a series of Ludo secret watches where the “buckle” snaps shut, hiding the dial at a touch.

“It’s always a challenge to reinvent a timeless motif,” says Nicolas Bos, president and CEO of the house. “A classic has to win approval to slowly acquire value, and that takes time. Then it becomes instantly recognisable, because it instils emotion.”

It’s always a challenge to reinvent a timeless motif

Harry Winston devised his Cluster in the golden age of Hollywood. The sculptural motif of pear-shaped, round and marquise-cut diamonds, set at odd angles around a necklace, was a technical as well as creative feat. At the 2022 Academy Awards, Nicole Kidman proved how timeless the diamond Cluster earrings look – just as they did in 1999, when Gwyneth Paltrow wore demure Cluster studs to accept the Oscar for best actress.

Then there is Bulgari’s Monete, inspired by Nicola Bulgari’s passion for collecting ancient Roman coins in the 1960s. A heavy gold link chain with an authentic coin pendant, “it has become a house icon,” says Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s creative director. “But we are always thinking about how to make it easy to wear in line with contemporary tastes. Today, we might use lighter chains or introduce new combinations of materials, such as diamonds.” As the Bulgari brothers once told her: “Always look at the archive, with an eye projected on the future.”

Chanel High Jewellery white-gold and diamond Lion Solaire de Chanel necklace. Top, stylist’s own. Throughout, all jewellery POA

From top: Lugano Diamonds gold and diamond necklace. Tiffany & Co gold, platinum and diamond Jean Schlumberger Apollo brooch

From left: Dior Joaillerie white-gold and diamond Gem Dior bracelet and white-gold and diamond Archi Dior bracelet. Wardrobe.NYC viscose-mix dress (just seen), £575

From top: Van Cleef & Arpels gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl Ludo secret watch. Chaumet gold, diamond and emerald Skyline earring (one of a pair) and gold and yellow-sapphire Ondulation ring

Harry Winston platinum and diamond Cluster Wreath necklace. Wardrobe.NYC viscose-mix dress, £575

From left: Chopard rose-gold, spessartite-garnet and wood cuff. Louis Vuitton High Jewellery gold, diamond and ruby Destiny bracelet

Graff platinum and 15.32ct oval diamond ring and platinum and 10.52ct emerald-cut diamond ring. Hermès silk knit ribbed body, £2,100

From left: Bulgari pink-gold, diamond and Roman-coin Monete necklace. Cartier pink-gold, diamond, pink- and yellow-sapphire, spessartite-garnet, pink-chalcedony, orange-moonstone, citrine-palmeira, orange-citrine‑madere, fire-opal and orange-quartz-rutile Libre Polymorph bracelet

Set design, David De Quevedo at Cadence. Model, Ehlana Tabuteau at Premium. Casting, Tiago Martins at Ben Grimes Casting. Photographer’s assistant, Yves Mourtada. Stylist’s assistant, Aylin Bayhan. Set designer’s assistant, Emma Louise Ruckert. Retouching, Dave Herr. Production, Blanche Stagnara Lebas at Town Production